Thursday 27 June 2013

South

I left Florence with only one way to go, south. I decided to continue along the 101 for as long as I was comfortable and was enjoying the ride. I had a plan to reach San Francisco and ride over the Golden Gate bridge, it did occur to me to do this outside the morning/afternoon rush hour. Also, I wanted to see and ride along the Redwood Highway.


Morning coffee and the sea mist is burning off

Crossing into California I only had one problem, petrol (gas). At my first fill-up I could not enter a zip code while trying to pay using my card at the pump. In order to get around this you go into see the cashier, hand over some cash money and they will activate the pump. It is too difficult to guage the exact amount you need each time so I settle for 20 dollars, if you don't use the full 20 you go back to the cashier and they give you the change. Also, they have a consertina cover on the pump handle to catch fumes, so I end up fighting with this, some pumps also have a switch (cleverly disguised). The first time I filled up, I was there for about 20 minutes providing great enterainment for the locals. Now I just pull up, kill the bike, walk into the shop, handover 20 dollars, fill up, walk back and get some change, ride off, a master.


Redwood National Park, Info centre

Riding along the Redwood Highway was somewhat intimidating, at certain parts the trees are right on the edge of the road, no where to go if you get it wrong, so big and beautiful. I didn't stop to take a photo but there's plenty on the web. In fact this route is photo oppourtunity overload and the further south you go the more there is to see. I can't recommend this route enough (thanks Chris), I met one Dutch couple who had flown over and rented a small (for North America, big for Europe) RV/camper, they loved it, could be a way to see it all if you choose not to ship the bike.

I stayed the night in Eureka and decided, as it was Sunday, to ride straight for San Francisco in order to be clear the otherside by the start of the working week. Even though I moved more inland the countryside still amazed. I stopped at a rest area and got talking to two ex-pat Brits who now lived in Vancover, they were heading to the Nappa Valley just north of San Francisco to see the wine. It had been raining on and off and they had decided, like me, to make up some time, in fact they had Redwood overload, " ... there's only so many trees you can take in". They had not riden across North Dakota and Montana, clearly.


Golden Gate, in all it's foggy glory

No, that's not rain, it's the famous fog/sea mist, but it might as well be rain, I was soaked. So, I rode over the bridge, pulled up with all the other tourists for the 'photo' and then found myself driving through the centre of San Francisco, it was one of those moments when you just keep smiling. Deb and I had been here before so no need to stay and do all the sights, it was the bridge/bike I needed. After the city I picked up Highway 1 and spent a couple of nights in Santa Cruz, I wanted to finalise my route into Mexico and sort out a service for the bike just before I cross the border.


Highway 1

What can I say about Hwy 1 ? nothing except, please ride/drive it. You have to accept it's a tourist run and so you have to crawl along at times and the 'curves' will be taken out for you by an SUV enjoying the view, but relax and just enjoy, again it's 'photo overload'.


Still the '1'

I came to a halt at Ventura, I planned to get up early the next day and ride through Los Angeles before rush hour, 'man, god and plans' eh ?


Ventura, it's SoCal

Many thanks for all the support, especially from the NAS based in WSM, I'm missing you too guys, keep the club running, it's needed. Bike is running really well, have not even needed to top up the oil, just keeps going whatever the weather, about 5000 miles now, will treat it to new oil before Mexico. Gear is holding up well, no really hot temps yet, remains comfortable and dry. Body OK so far, ocassional aches, mostly linked to riding the 'super' winds. Still on imported baccy, they have local stuff but have not tried any, the filters here are massive though, about the size of toilet rolls, makes for interesting rolling. Also, they still offer 'smoking rooms' in motels, even in California, I tried one but could not work out what to do, it's been years since I smoked inside, I still joined the local branch of the NAS outside....




Monday 24 June 2013

The Sea

When I woke up the next day I had a choice, go south (as sort of planned) or continue west, I went west and what an amazing ride it was, at the end I saw the sea.


The Pacific

Chris in Ottawa had been talking about how good the riding was in this area, especially in California. I have always been really intrigued by the coastline north of San Francisco up to Washington state, in particular the Redwood Highway. Also, somethings we may have to do, even though it's been done a few million times before, ride a bike over the Golden Gate bridge.

I left Great Falls and rode as far as Kamiah in Idaho, mosty along Route 12. Straight away the hills and mountains began to appear and the flat and straight riding of the last week was gone.


The hills/mountains begin, Info centre on the route out of Great Falls.

I rode via Missoula and by pure chance found myself passing a warning sign which read something like '99 miles of curves', I think it's called the Lolo Pass. Even in the rain it was great, not too tight just sweeping curves and hardly anyone else on it, it just went on and on until I stopped for the night.
  

Lolo Pass

My neighbour in Kamiah was Bill, who with his dog went up into the hills to survey the forest, either for the State or Federal authorities. Bill lives in Colarado and drives his camper around the US each summer doing this work. He showed me the maps he is given, already a lot of detail, and then using GPS he hooves it into the woods, now 60 Bill reckins he has 5 more seasons in him (he's due a hip operation in the fall, just can't choose the right specialist). He told me that there were other crews in the motel, younger than him and working long days, they were 'entitled to it', his days of hiking and using a tent were behind him, especially as the money was now worse than before. His dog, from the shelter so of unknown origin (Bill said it was a snow dog), sat watching use talk. In the last couple of years he had seen cougars and bears, plus he had been close to wolves.. 'damn government interfering bringng them back, they're dangerous and weid got rid of them'. Bill would appear each time I walked outside for a cigarette, he was no way 'gonna work in the rain'. The next morning, after breakfast with Bill, I headed for Portland, eventually joining the trucks on I84 to make sometime and get buffeted and blown along by the wind, as with Montana it just blew and blew. As I rode up out of Walla Walla it just hit, amazing scenery but focus very much on the road. I found a truck stop about 100 miles from Portland and called it a day, knackered.


A size issue

I was now in Oregan and had been following the Columbia river and at one stop the next morning, not far from Portland, I found this sign,


Those guys fron the navy get everywhere

The valley itself was, again, beautiful,


Columbia River

I got through a busy rush hour in Portland and headed for the coast, eventually reaching a place called Florence for the night. A great few days, wind, rain and sun, lots of amazing scenery and a few interesting characters along the way.


Yachats, Pacific coast, Oregan.

Ready now to plan the next phase of the trip, including where and when to enter Mexico. Many thanks for the comments and support, can't fault those WSM guys, cheers Tone..



Thursday 20 June 2013

House keeping ...

Sat talking with a guy in Glasgow (Montana) who had ridden his RT1200 up from Louisiana to see his new grandson, well that was his excuse for a ride. As he said, ' .. in this country you have to ride 2-3 days to get to decent bike roads'. He told me there was construction on the 'to the sun road' and some doubt they had cleared the top of snow/ice. I figured it was a good enough reason to get into some housekeeping, it was time to take a 'left' and head to Great Falls for a few days, the RT man had just come up from there..

It is amazing riding in North Dakota and Montana, massive views and huge skies. No corners. You get those classic long straights where you can see the road going on for miles, only a few small towns on the way. The exception was Williston which seems to be at the centre of a new oil and gas boom, mostly fracking.


Williston .. it's booming

On a water break at Fort Belknap an old guy came up to ask about the bike, he wanted to me to know I was on a Indian reservation, it was good just to talk and take sometime, one of those 'this is what it's all about moments'.


Fort Belknap Indian Reservation, Casino (one of many in these parts)

The route I was taking to Great Falls seemed to pick up both the Missouri River (catch all those western movies ?) and the path taken by the Lewis and Clark Expedition which was tasked to map this area (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lewis_and_Clark_Expedition). By the side of the road you get these signs pointing out historical events, some not as benign as this one.



Maria's River, on the 87

So, into Great Falls and a Motel downtown with secure parking, even a 'proper' coffee house around the corner.


Civilisation

Lots to be done, wanted to sort through all my gear, it was packed in Halifax so was due a review. Clothes washing, exciting heh ? and for the bike a clean and a new back tyre. The Harley 'bikers' can often be seen cleaning and polishing beside the road, this motel knows it's client group, it provides not a car wash area but a 'Bike wash', quality crew them HOGs.


Nothing else to add .. really

I found the local bike dealer (http://www.stevessportscenter.com/index.htm) and went over to see what they had in the way of tyres. They were great but had limited choice, even so we sourced a new back tyre and they cleaned up the back of the bike when they fitted it. We spent sometime in the workshop setting up the drive chain and getting the tyre inflation right to better manage the load I'm carrying, Steve, the owner, was a great help. It seems that man/motorbikist Nick Sanders got re-shod here on his way through during his 'north to south America' record breaking attempt, can't get away from that man. Just riding around town getting things done showed a real improvement in the handling of the bike, will be great to see what it's like when fully loaded again.


Crisp rubber and shiny hub

It's been a really successful stay in Great Falls, spending a few days in one place really helps to get a much better feel for the people and place, as has been the case so far, everyone has been very helpful.

Other news, Michael and I have now gone solo, my decision and I think a good one, we've now got a much better chance of getting 'the' trip we each want. I've updated the blog to reflect this, gone is the sponsored gear and no more 'riders and bikes' just 'rider and bike'. A couple of obvious benefits to riding solo, firstly you can get more involved with people as you go along and secondly, you can wake up and choose to go exactly where you want .... so

Music to listen to, new Daft Punk and Tony's Bonobo et al mix (many thanks Tone)

Elvis, he live in Great Falls.


Saturday 15 June 2013

Wood, Wind and Ore

Where were we last post ? well we've moved on and some (you're right Mr Adam). Both of us admit to a serious case of mountain fever. So, there went Michigan, Wisconsin, Minnesota and now we sit somewhat stunned in Minot, North Dakota, a mere spit from Montana. Those hills/mountains are calling.



A motel, somewhere

Left Marquette and made Grand Rapids, Minnesota, the first night, then a 400+ haul to Minot. The bikes are running really well. Waved a sad goodbye to Lake Superior at Duluth and with it those amazing ore docks (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ore_dock). The forests full of wood also petered out at the North Dakota border where someone turned on a huge wind machine as the land became flat and agricultural, left shoulder now bulked up from 'sailing' along the highway, still following 2 west. Have been watching the deer cruising the edge of the highways and counting the number sadly turned into road kill. So far so safe, for us.



Couple of decent chaps, we just forgot the flag. Rugby, the geograhical centre of North America (just past Leeds)

I forgot to mention back in Quebec a bird flew into the front of my bike and disappeared amongst the forks, I thought it was dead. We were heading for Big Macs (a cultural moment) and I had this image of me riding into the car park, getting off the bike and pulling out the bird, dropping it on the floor and walking inside. The area we were in had a sort 'good ole boy' flavour so I thought it would help us fit in. However, before we stopped I stood up on the foot pegs and looked down to see the bird enjoying the ride, it was fine and when it saw my shadow flew off to the side. What a dude I thought, how much practice does that take ?



The wind in North Dakota

So onwards and upwards, getting very used to being on the bikes, feeling confortable and enjoying being there and here. Looking forward now to the Glacier National Park in Montana and the Going to the sun road, (http://www.motorcycleroads.com/75/353/Montana/Going-To-The-Sun-Road.html), should be fun.


Thursday 13 June 2013

Plan .. what plan ?

So we left Ottawa and headed along the 17 towards North Bay, we passed through early evening and found a good, clean roadside motel in Sturgeon Bay. All the time we thought about the great advice we had been given by those we had met in Canada regarding the route to take. After much discusion we both agreed to head into the USA and pick up the 2 and run along the south side of the border.



Just gotta love those truck stops

We set off from Sturgeon on Tuesday the 11th of June with the intention of staying the night in Sault Ste. Marie and crossing the border into the USA on Thursday between Lakes Superior and Huron. We made such good time that during our brew stop we agreed to head straight to the border and try and cross, we reached it mid-afternoon wet from heavy showers. The border guards were great, no hassle, really happy to help and we were through exchanging dollars for dollars within the hour. We decided to stay locally that night so booked into a motel next to the Soo Locks (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Soo_Locks).



Sault Ste. Marie, Michigan, USA 

As luck would have it the largest ship on the lakes was about to pass through the locks so we joined our fellow 'ship spotters' and watched it through. As in Canada, everyone was friendly and helpful, still interested in what we are doing. A dose of 'gut rot' kept us both entertained through the evening/night before we set off to skirt Lake Superior, we would just like to thank that cafe/restaurant/truck stop for allowing me, in particular, the chance to test all those public toilets and 'long drops' along the ride, they all work.



Soo Locks

At one brew and 'long drop' stop we met a couple of Harley bikers in full regalia, they were happy to talk and advised us of a route which used to be for snow mobiles/ATVs but was now paved and came with corners. Excited we detoured to Grand Marais on the lake and found amazing views across Superior, MPS led, found the road of corners and took off. I noticed the speed limit and cruised along, slowing for a deer as it crossed the road. The Harley guys were right, curve after curve through forest. I found MPS outside a deserted bar called the Bear Trap, he ate and I supped water. Again we got a great welcome although you had to feel sorry for the 50 stuffed animals perched around.



Lake Superior at Grand Marais

We decided to take a day off riding so stayed at the Econolodge in Marquette, arriving Wednesday evening. On Thursday we asked at reception for a taxi into town but was offered a lift by Trista the owner/manager who also drove us around pointing out the sights. Asking for the 'best coffee in town' Trista took us to the Dead River cafe owned by Theo. So followed, without doubt, the best coffee since we arrived on these shores, Theo roasts as well as makes 'pie', great atmostphere, really friendly people. We returned to the cafe after a walk around town and spent another couple of hours talking with Karl and Diana who had ridden up from Georgia on BMWs.



Theo 'coffee maestro', Trista and MPS

So, for us a change to a fluid plan, amazing sights, really interesting people who were happy to share and take time to help. Best advice I could give ?  stop reading those Murdoch papers, listening to Fox News, put aside the Daily Mail, it really is OK out there. That said, the Harley guys did warn us about the contras in Argentina.

On now to join the 2 through Minnesota then North or South Dakota, Montana ... or ummm

Monday 10 June 2013

Chris and the Home Depot ...

While preparing for this trip we read many blogs and books written by riders (not bikers) who had done something similar. Often the real adventure did not start for these riders until something went wrong, they get lost, something breaks and so on, this usually makes for better reading but also seems to increase the 'adventure' angle of the trip. Well ... read on.


Yep .. he is talking to a Harley rider

So, we spent the last night in Quebec and decided to head towards Ottawa, riding around Montreal and the F1 race. Often we will miss the big cities but decided today, Sunday, it would be an easy ride. Hitting the 417 in downtown Ottawa we found ourselves stuck in road works, as we began to move I noticed my front brakes catching, we pulled over to the side and then found that one of the two bolts which hold the front right break caliper on was gone and the disc had started to eat the caliper. We made a quick fix and re-joined the traffic using the back brake. We began scanning for bike/car dealers, found one off the motorway but it was closed. We got directions to an out of town shopping area and found the Home Depot (Band Q or Mitre10). As I was in the shop finding out they had nothing to help, a local rider called Chris rode up to Michael and began talking. Soon we were following him back to his house to meet his family, eat very well, sleep, wash clothes and then be driven around by his son Dan the following day to get the missing part.



Joan, Andrew, Louise, Chris and MPS

We met Chris's wife Joan, her Mum Louise, their sons Dan and Andrew and their partners Emily and Natasha. They all worked in a mix of IT and health care, had property around the world and a collection of small dogs. We can't thank these great people enough, they opened their house and family Sunday to two sweaty riders, provided a warm welcome and lots of great advice. Many thanks, a true highlight of the trip so far, it will be difficult to beat.




Spot that new top bolt

So tip of the day, if you break down in Ottawa, head to the Home Depot, Chris rides a Suzuki Vstrom.



Leaving Chris and Joan's house, all fixed up (thanks Dan)


So now heading towards the lakes, plenty of good riding to come and decisions to make about where that will be.  





Into Quebec ..

Michael writes ..

It's French Jim, but not as we know it. Quebec speaks a French patois. Our level of schoolboy Francais does not quite cut it, they can understand us but the reply is trop diferent je pense. Surprisingly few people speak English at a good level. Culturally interesting, but it cannot help progress when they are at sea in an ocean of English. The road surface here seems to reflect this opinion, it ain't good.
Saturday was rain, on and off all day. 200 or so miles took us past Quebec and on the way to Montreal. Showers followed dry spells and about mid afternoon I (MPS) discovered that my inexpensive Waterproof boots, weren't. Two soggy feet and the ignomy of hearing Andrew repeat the words Gore Tex over and over and.....


Just past Quebec City, a brew stop.


The other issue du jour was the Go Sim, or in Andrews case the No Go SIM.
Post purchase we discovered that they are Jersey Telecom, so our calculations of call costs, based on their promise of calling via a "British" mobile number, were useless.
About double that to call a "UK" mobile.
The idea was that folks can call us for around 6p a minute and in Canada/USA/Mexico we would receive the calls free.
Surprise then when my 75 quid was gone after 4 days in Canada. Call to the help desk confirmed my mistake of not re entering my PIN with a "2" in front. Call to the help desk cost US$37 for 15 minutes on the number that they publish as toll free on their website.
"Yes sir but it's only toll free when calling from a landline, you should have dialled 154." ( an Easy Dial number, not necessarily a toll free number)
Yes mate, if I had a landline I would not need your service.
So why, in the days when we are bombarded with text from phone companies welcoming us into their revenue stream, do they not simply send us a text reminding us to re enter the PIN?
Revenue grabbing?
Well, the experience cost us around 170 quid and a lesson not to load up too much credit in future.
We are off to the SIM shop in short order and as soon as we have used up the remainder credit it will be sayonara Go Sim.
For those interested:1. Get a local SIM. 2. Get folks to call the mobile using a cheap landline option or something like Lebara.
Nuff said
.


Where's the traffic ?



Friday 7 June 2013

On the road ..

After a final check at Autoport in Halifax we took delivery of our bikes and brought them back to the hotel for our last night in the city. The bikes were ridden from the secure section of the docks by a guy from Manchester, as he arrived a bike pulled up ridden by a Brit who was shipping back to the UK after 8 months on the road, great to have a chat and get some pointers from them both.



First coffee stop

We set off the next day, Thursday, and rode for 370 miles, across Nova Scotia and New Brunswick, we spent our first night in a Yurt at a campsite in Campbellton, a cheap night but beautifully located inside a forest. Really interesting ride up, easy to notice the changes amongst the Canadians we met, both English and French speakers, or Arcadians. Stopped in a coffee chain for breakfast after around 100 miles and then went off the highway and had lunch in a small town where they all spoke French. Landscape mostly flat with occassioanl rolling hills, mostly forestry with some agriculture. The roads were great, dead straight, it was like riding in a computer game or sat watching a movie pass by, we reckon on about 5 gear changes per 100 miles. It's hard to get a sense of how big this country is, although riding for over 5 hours and then looking at the map and seeing how little we had covered sort of helped.



Yurt living

On Friday we left our Yurt after a night spent enjoying freezing temps, multi layer sleeping. We took the 132 and rode into Quebec, first thing you notice is the lack of English, all road signs in French. Beautiful riding whch eventually returned to long straight roads as we came alongside the St Lawrance river. After another 200 + miles we agreed to stop and rest at Riviere-du-Loup, this time in a motel with amazing views over the river.



Pulled up by the St Lawrance




And a tributary of the massive river 

The Canadians we have been lucky to meet have been both friendly and helpful, many have gone out of their way to help with transport and directions, as we pull up on the bikes we always end up in conversation and get some great advice for the ride ahead. Special mention must be made here for Carol at the T-Bar restaurant at the Sugerloaf Park where we stayed in the Yurt, Carol makes the best cup of tea in Canada, really, so if you're around Campbellton check out the T-Bar and ask Carol for a tea.



The view from the motel at Riviere-du-Loup


Off tomorrow towards Quebec City and then heading west.



Tuesday 4 June 2013

Halifax.. almost on our way ..

After a heavy day travelling, including a missed connection in Toronto, we finally fell into bed at 3.20am local time but 24hours since we left the west country of England. By 9 am, after a few hours sleep, we found ourselves plodding around Halifax in a bleak coastal drizzle but then it all got better.



View from hotel window, Halifax, wet.

The sun came out and we moved from office to office, a flurry of rubber stamps released the bikes, almost, into Canada. Flushed with success the young bull suggested we trot back to base for snoozies. Age and wisdom (ed .. ?) prevailed however and soon we were on a ferry for the best ten dollar tour to the Autoport where our trusty steeds were hopefully waiting.


Autoport,  the boat, our bikes are hiding around the corner, security says 'not yet ..'


 

The sun shines on Halifax, on the ferry towards the CBD from Dartmouth

And indeed they were, shining in the sun but still inaccessable until tomorrow when a completed formality will release them into the environment with us on board and ready to go. Plan is to get them back to the hotel, pack and re-pack and then set off on the following day.



Macdonald bridge seen from AlderneyWarf, Dartmouth.